Top-Flight Wining & Dining

Owning a restaurant is a fantasy for many a Hollywood hotshot, and all too often they end up as poorly executed vanity projects. Not so the brand-new wine bar and restaurant hidden atop a flight of stairs in Old Pasadena. Owned by mega-movie producer and Pasadena resident Gale Anne Hurd, Vertical Wine Bistro takes its wine, its food and its experience seriously—but in an unpretentious, east-of-La-Brea way. And early indications are that eastsiders will eat and drink it up. Look for more on this four-day-old bar/bistro soon, but in meantime try to check it out. With 100 wines by the glass, a seductive small-plates menu created by talented chef Sara Levine, a stylish brick-and-leather setting that would be at home in San Francisco or Soho, and an absence of attitude, Vertical has the potential to become the place in town to meet for a drink, a nosh and a conversation. 70 N. Raymond Ave., Old Pasadena, 626.795.3999, www.verticalwinebistro.com.

 

Hungry in Monrovia

By Sandy Gillis

I went exploring in Monrovia the other day, tempted by signs for food vendors I’d never noticed before. First up was Dogwoods Marketplace (245 W. Foothill Blvd., 626.357.1158). It looks fantastic from the outside, very New Canaan, shoppers' mid-salary range $850,000. Inside, it’s a cavern: shelves not stocked, items not labeled, not a Diet Coke to be found, one scrawny kid behind the register. It was hilarious, now that I think about it . A decent sandwich deli lurks in the west corner, with three nicely upholstered booths for your hoagie pleasure. And they have the biggest Red Delicious apples that really are red and delicious for a low, low 89 cents a pound. So why do we hear only crickets instead of cash registers? It's been open since October 2005 but has a new owner who's "ordering all new stuff," according to the kid behind the counter. It's a good location, a beautiful building with ample parking, and Monrovia could use a spiffy gourmet market. So we'll wait and hope.

Next stop was Rigo's Mexican Restaurant (457 Foothill Blvd., 626.559.9071). Ohmahgah. It’s home to the fluffiest, toastiest corn tortillas you will find in all of ... Monrovia. So, so, so, so, so, so good. But let's back up. Our waiter brought chips and killer spicy-crunchy salsa, with fresca scallions and tomatoes. And bottomless Diet Cokes. And a bueno roasted pepper salsa. We ordered the homemade tamale of the day, which was pork; it was sweet, tender and fragrant, served with rice (good) and beans (great). They are firm but in a flavorful creamy sauce dappled with manchego, not so much that you should eat with your cardiologist, but just enough to make them buttery on the way down. The shredded beef tacos with salsa were better than the carnitas tacos, which was cubed and a bit of a choking experience after the melody of all the other items. But the salsa, handmade tamales and excellent service completely make up for a so-so taco al carnitas.

The little strip-mall place is clean and decorated with pinatas and serapes, like some gringo’s idea of the old country. But it is clean, has senior plate and kid's plates (under $5!), and patrons can eavesdrop on diners' talk of just-completed hikes up nearby Monrovia trails.

 

The Condos That Ate Pasadena

The next victim of our hometown’s building mania is slated to be Rick’s Drive-in, one of Pasadena’s most cherished burger/burrito joints. It’s looking for a new location and will hopefully survive, but in the meantime we’d advise putting away as many Spuderitos as possible, just in case. 680 E. Walnut St., Pasadena, 626.449.4842.

Get Your Mocha On

By Sandy Gillis

The long days of iced summer drinks are over, so I went in search of the perfect fall beverage. When it's too early for bourbon, nobody blinks at having a café mocha, that happy blend of espresso, steamed milk and chocolate. I skipped the franchises and went directly to hometown faveys, which often means cash only. For more suggestions, see page 149 of your assigned Hometown Pasadena text.

In order of fabulousness:

1. Zona Rosa. Mel recommends the zocalo con platano, the hot Mexican choco-

Going, going, gone . . . Zona Rosa's mocha cappuccinos.

late with banana, which I'll save for the chocolate-and-banana drink search. Right after the get-your-fat-hinder-to-the-gym search. The café mocha is, sorry to say, nothing spectacular. But wowzer, do not get between me and the Zona Rosa cappuccino. Tops! Coffee and Ibarra chocolate, neither bitter nor too sweet. Bonus: the best Day of the Dead decs in a coffeehouse. 15 S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena, 626.793.2334.

2. Swörk. The Mexican Mayan mocha is too cinnamon-heavy for me, and the white chocolate mocha has a toothache-sweet smell, ditto the taste. Ah, the third time's a charm with the most heavenly Swörkuccino mocha in all of CoffeeLand Playplace. (This college-town place is toddler- and laptop-friendly; thankfully, there are no toddlers with laptops—those are just for busy, busy grownups.) $4.50 for a medium Swörkuccino—spendy and worth it. 2160 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, 323.258.5600; 2140 Verdugo Blvd., Montrose; 818.248.3700.

3. Europane. It’s decidedly unglam from strip-mall outside, and a bit of a parking hassle. Nonetheless, get thee to Europane to worship at this altar to chocolate. Parisienne espresso is jolted with strong dark chocolate that will either put hair on your chest or strip it off, saints be praised. Add to your exaltation with a chocolate tart, a combination of mousse and custard that is dense yet delicate. Yes, there is a good and merciful God. 950 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.577.1828.

4. Zephyr Coffee House & Art Gallery. Smooth, fragrant coffee is dosed with hearty chocolate, which turns out to be regular old Hershey's syrup. The nonfat mocha is rich, served in a fat, hand-thrown ceramic cup and at $3, the best value around. The lot is a bit tight in back, so park on the street. 2419 E. Colorado Blvd., East Pasadena, 626.793.7730; closed Sunday.

5. Zeli Coffee Bar. My teenage daughter begs for Zeli's outstanding frozen hot chocolate laced with mint. The two hot mochas are the flaccid Mocha Joe, regular coffee with chocolate powder and steamed milk, or the virile mocha—ding, ding, ding!—which blends espresso, chocolate syrup and steamed milk. Good pastries and more elbow room than the Pasadena shop. 639 Foothill Blvd., La Cañada, 818.790.2315.

6. Coffee Table Bistro. Maybe I got Super Barista, but my jumbo 16-ounce to-go mocha stays hot for a long time, filling my car with a heady scent.Great foam, excellent coffee and a smooth chocolate punch that’s just this side of sweet. While you wait, take in the photo essay of Eagle Rock back in the day. 1958 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, 323.255.2200.

7. Chocolate Box Café. I know Colleen will think this oasis should be higher on the list. It is a fantastic neighborhood find, packed with decadent handmade Belgian chocolates. (The chili-powder truffle is divine.) At the coffee bar, I nearly fainted when Mocha Girl hauled out a giant container of chocolate shavings from which to scoop a heap of black gold flakes into my cup. Huzzah! Still, by definition this isn't a mocha, just a great grownup's hot chocolate with a smoky whisper of espresso. Not that I'm complaining. 714 Foothill Blvd., La Cañada, 818.973.3148.

8. Café Culture. I shouldn’t even tell you about my neighborhood secret, but here I go: Strong coffee drinks, internet connection, belly dancing lessons, after-school tutoring and lots of regulars. This is a serious steamed mocha, bold and balanced. Pastries and sandwiches, and a shelf full of books to borrow, too. 1359 N. Altadena Dr., Pasadena, 626.398.8654.

9. Kaldi. The nonfat mocha is rich and creamy, with a spidery chocolate syrup design on top, and the Mexican mocha has a good cinnamon shot that doesn’t stick in the throat or interrupt lung function, like some. 1019 El Centro St., South Pasadena, 626.403.5951.

10. Café Alibi. This was my first encounter with non-dairy whipped cream. Even without that luxury, this is a sturdy cup, creamy and well balanced, with medium-bodied espresso and chocolate. On the west side of the Castle Green, Alibi is a pleasant spot to people-watch through big picture windows. 84 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Old Pasadena, 626.577.5779.

11. Bee’s Knees Bakery. This is a decent mocha, with fluffy foam and a dominant chocolate flavor that tends to overpower the espresso. Still, the $2.75 small cup is a good bet. This darling shop, here for eight years, is a bakery first, with pretty cupcakes, brownies, three-bite turnovers and specialty cakes by the scrapbook full. The cinnamon bread pudding is incredibly tasty. 424 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.793.2253.

12. Buster’s. This Mission Street hangout has always served a potent cup of coffee, so it’s no surprise that its mocha is dominated by espresso. The presentation is lovely, a gorgeous pillow of nonfat milk foam swirled with chocolate sauce—but, harumph, I'm supposed to stir my decoration just to get a whisper of chocolate? 1006 Mission St., South Pasadena, 626.441.0744.

13. Vanille de Patisserie. This grand, gleaming patisserie has the most splendid seasonal cakes; the recent Halloween selections included colorful lobotomized heads. The mocha scores big points for presentation, in an oversized, Frenchy white cup and saucer, served with a yummy handmade pecan-almond sandie—a lotta wow for $2.75. As a latte, the drink is nearly average; as a mocha, well, let's just say that with half the water and twice the espresso and chocolate, it would be at the tippy-top of the list! Next time I'll ask the friendly staff for a double, and I just know we'll get it right. 2998 Huntington Dr. (at San Gabriel Blvd.), San Marino, 626.286.3600.

 

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